Taiwanese Cuisine A hundred miles from the Chinese
mainland lies Taiwan. Most simply described, the cuisine
of this mountainous island on the edge of the Pacific is
Chinese, with some significant Japanese influences. Apart
from the staple, rice, Taiwan is a bounty of fruit, vegetables,
and seafood.
Broadly speaking, the food of
China can be divided into four regional styles - northern
southern, eastern and western. Fujian, according to E. N.
Anderson, belongs to the eastern tradition but is quite distinctive
in its own right. Taiwanese cuisine can be see as an
outgrowth of Fujianese cuisine.
The major influences on Taiwanese cuisine are, as anywhere,
the geographical, and historical.
Geographical Influences
Dominance of mountains resulting in a population crowded
into a limited area of plains, mainly in coastal areas.
Island nation, close proximity of the population to the
sea
Historical Influences
Pre-20th Century History - Immigration
from China, southern Fujian in particular. As well as
a close geographical proximity to Taiwan, Fujian has similar
weather, and has in common with Taiwan formidable mountain
ranges and a lengthy coastline. It would not have been
difficult for the early settlers to replicate their native
food ways in their new home.
Japanese Influence 1895 - 1945. The
Japanese during their fifty year occupation turned Taiwan
into a major food supplier to Japan as well as off-loading
a considerable amount of their own foodstuffs and eating
habits onto Taiwan.
1947 - 1949 Immigration Wave Led by
the Guomindang (KMT), huge numbers of migrants arrived
from China, They carried their eating habits, which
in many cases were quite different from the local Taiwanese.
.
Japanese Influence
While Japanese cuisine has had a big influence in Taiwan,
Taiwanese cuisine clearly belongs to
the Chinese food tradition. Some Japanese influences,
such as popularity of sashimi and sushi are obvious,
others blend in and are more difficult to recognize.
Japanese restaurants, both 'authentic' and Taiwan-style,
are very common.
Cooking wine - Few dishes are cooked
without rice wine, and it is here that Japanese influence
is very pervasive. Unlike the mainland, Taiwanese cooks
rarely use yellow wine (shaoxing-style wine). The standard
cooking wine in Taiwan is a clear light rice wine, very
similar to mirin, the Japanese cooking wine, though less
salty. Taiwan rice wine is much less distinctive in taste
than yellow wine and has the effect of lightening the flavour
of the food in comparison.
Sashimi Commonly served in Japanese
and in Chinese restaurants.
Sushi As above.
Miso / Miso soup As above.
Seaweed Coastal Chinese eat seaweed
but it is the Japanese who take it to the level of an
art form, and this seems to have carried over somewhat
to Taiwan.
Wasabi is a common accompaniment to certain
seafood dishes
Teppanyaki grills are common, though
usually highly localized, most obviously by adding lashings
of minced garlic and chili to most dishes.
Taiwanese tempura (tian bu la) This
seems to be inspired by the Japanese cooking
style tempura, though with major Taiwanese characteristics,
the most obvious being, that not all of the foods are battered.
I call it Taiwan fish and chips. It is sold be roadside
deep fry stands which offer up a whole range of foods with
fresh basil leaves, then powder the whole lot with a salt
and pepper mixture and chili powder if you want. Items
include: chicken pieces, dried tofu, string beans, sweet
potato chips, potato chips, pig's blood/rice cake, squid,
fish balls,
Curry - An insipidly mild curry that always
includes potato, often chicken, seems to have come
via Japan.
Japanese-style chopsticks Japanese chopsticks
are shorter and have pointed ends. They function better
than Chinese chopsticks which seem clunky in comparison.
1947 - 1949 Immigration Wave The writing was already on the wall by 1947.
Chiang Kai shek's Guomindang was defeated by Mao's determined
Red Army in 1949. The US moved a large sector of Chiang's
army and even more civilians to Taiwan. They were from many
areas of China. The result of this mass immigration is that
today in Taiwan you can find a great range of regional foods
from all over China, many of which have adapted to suit local
tastes.
Taiwan
Vegetables Taiwan produces
a huge variety of vegetables, particularly the leafy green
varieties
Oriental (welsh) onions
Onions
Garlic
Chinese chives
Leeks
Chilli
Ginger
Basil - Used extensively in cooking
Coriander (cilantro) leaves - Strong tasting herb used
as a garnish on soups and stews.
Water spinach
Spinach
Taiwan bok choy
Shanghai bok choy
Oil seed rape
Chinese broccoli
Amaranth
Garland chrysanthemum
Chinese cabbage
Cabbage
Chinese celery
Celery
Mung bean sprouts
Soy bean sprouts
Bitter melon
Winter melon
Asian radish (daikon)
Luffa
Sweet potato - Tuber & leaves. Thought of as famine
food, though still enjoyed nonetheless.
Potato
Taro
Chinese yam
Bamboo shoots
Carrots
Oriental cucumber
Yard long beans
String beans
Chinese eggplant
Corn
Shiitake mushrooms
Wood ear - This fungi turns up in a surprising number
of dishes and is absolutely required in Taiwan Hot
and Sour Soup
Lilly buds
Taiwan Fruit
Taiwan grows a wide range of tropical and temperate fruits,
and also imports a good deal. Taiwanese gorge on fruit,
and no decent communal meal would be complete without
a large platter of sliced fruit (it's good for digestion,
your host will say). For the fruit platter, chopsticks
are dispensed with. You eat the fruit slices with bamboo
toothpicks. Many fruits are eaten
unripe. The list below is for locally grown fruit.
Plums There many kinds of plums,
usually preserved.
Taiwan Seafood:
As you might expect of island where you are never
far from the shoreline, seafood is plentiful and very fresh.
Clams - I doubt a week goes
by when I am not served clams at least once, usually in
soup.
Oysters - Oyster omlette is
a traditional snack.
Prawns
Crab
Cuttlefish
Squid
Sea cucumber
Jellyfish
Eel
Seaweed
Saury
Cod
Salmon
Shark
Other Items
Rice A hybrid of long and short grain,
developed during Japanese rule in the first half of the
Twentieth Century, has long been dominant. It is quite
sticky.
Tofu of many kinds
Chestnuts
Water caltrop
Thousand year-old egg
Salty duck's egg
"Barbeque Sauce" (sha cha jiang
/ sand tea sauce) Used in cooking and as the base for
hotpot dipping sauce.
Dried pork and fish floss
Taiwan Snacks (xiao
chi) Taiwanese are great snackers as a visit to one of the
island's ubiquitous 7-11 convenience stores will show. There
you will find hundreds of different snack foods, including
traditional favourites like tea eggs and dried squid, sitting
alongside more recent imports like chocolate and potato chips.
Watermelon
seeds
Deep
fried broad beans
Dried
tofu
Puffed rice cake
Sugarcane - Street side snack. The 'skin'
is shaved off and it is cut into 12" lengths and sold
by the bagful. You need good teeth, and don't forget to
spit out the fibre once you have chewed the juice out of
each mouthful.
Shaved ice - with fruit, adzuki and mung beans, peanuts
or various other toppings
Taiwan Appetisers
(xiao cai) Taiwan is also known for its range of appetisers.
Few dishes, in fact, are eaten without some sort of starter
or side dish.
Stewed appetizers egg, seaweed, tofu, pig's ear, pig's
skin, various pig guts etc.
Pig's blood and rice cake (a duck's blood version is
available for those who eschew pork)
Tofu with thousand year-old egg
Taiwan Dishes While
stir-fries are plentiful, Taiwanese food is characterised
by stews and soups. A ten course banquet will probably
have four or five on the menu. Here is just a small selection
of typical dishes.
Rice
porridge [ Recipe ] The standard tradition breakfast
dish. Now relegated to the role of comfort food.
Taiwan sandwich - Taiwanese have adopted
the sandwich, but strictly for breakfast only. The
range of fillings is limited: fried egg, ham and diced
cucumber, and dried pork floss
Pastry omelette (dan bing) A common
breakfast dish.
Rou zhao fan
Lu rou fan
Steamed bamboo cup rice 'cake' (mi
gao)
Soups: Just a few: Bamboo
and pork chop soup [ Recipe ]
Thick soups called geng, with minced
pork pieces orsometimes squid, Clam soup, Oyster
soup, Pork ball soup, Fish ball soup, Egg drop
soup, Miso soup, "Green
vegetable" & tofu
soup, Seaweed soup, Corn soup, Pig's blood soup, Hot
and sour soup [ Recipe ]
Taiwan steak (also pork and
chicken options) - Always on a sizzle plate with
noodles, frozen corn and carrot pieces
Taiwan Drinks Tea is rarely taken
with meals (but soup almost always is)
Tea
- Taiwanese are inveterate wulong drinkers. Black or green
tea is always considered second-rate and is only used
in flower or scented teas of cold tea concoctions (usually
tea shakes) such as fruit tea etc.
Bubble tea - a local invention
Winter melon tea
Soybean milk - usually sweetened
Papaya milkshake - Delicious, just finish
it within 20 minutes or you will get a nasty surprise
- it will solidify into a bitter custard
Kaoliang (sorghum) liquor -
Traditional staple of the Taiwan hard drinking crew
Taiwan Beer - "Famous in the world,"
Shaoxing wine - Until ten years ago, a very popular
drink, now under an onslaught of imported choices – wine,
whiskey, beer – hardly anyone touches it. Not normally
used as a cooking wine.
Millet ale - a traditional drink of the aborigines
Rice,
the World's Plainest Food?
Even the English, known for their plain cooking, use salt when boiling
potatoes and carrots. Yet the Chinese cook rice in nothing but water.
In stark contrast to the way other foods are prepared in China, rice is
a singularly pure, simple, even bland dish; the perfect foil for well
seasoned meat and vegetable dishes.